Just booked freelander in for the following:

Coolant change
brake fluid replacement
Auto gearbox oil change
ancillary belt replacement...all at local LR

Additional work:
rear diff oil replacement
haldex service...Bell engineering

At least once done that more or less covers the 10yr service, had cambelt and water pump done in Nov and full service Dec last year so hopefully all major maintenance is sorted and ill do routine servicing from now on.

This vehicle is definitely worth ongoing investment so biting the bullet!

Can I ask why the coolant change, surly if you had the timing belt and water pump replaced in Nov then whoever did it would have flushed the cooling system and replaced the coolant then as they have to drain the cooling system down to do the timing belt.

AT1963 wrote:

Just booked freelander in for the following:


This vehicle is definitely worth ongoing investment so biting the bullet!

If you're going to keep it, you need to be changing the drive line fluids much more often than every 10 years, with 3 years being much more beneficial to the components longevity.

As above, you don't need the coolant changed, as it was only changed when the water pump was replaced.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

@AT1963
The JLR servicing schedule is simply inadequate and is designed to minimise servicing costs during the warranty period.

I agree totally with Nodge - you should change the driveline lubricants much more frequently.

Try googling for "how often should a haldex unit be serviced" - you'll see about its about 20K miles. Only JLR ignore this.

https://www.bellengineering.co.uk/service-...ist_widget Jules

I think your right about driveline fluids...i acquired vehicle in November so I'm slowly getting it to where it should be so hence this may be the first time the haldex/rear diff etc has been looked at
As for coolant, does all the coolant need to be drained to change cambelt and water pump??
I don't think they drained it completely so interested to know if it is completely drained?

Jules..your right about JLR but i would imagine any dealer may probably take a similar approach.
TBH- oil changes every 2 years is poor. Our FL2 was first serviced by main dealer after 2 years!
Our Audi is serviced yearly but they have a flexible service plan for supposed low mileage / high mileage cars and try to justify with long life (super ) oil!!

AT1963 wrote:

As for coolant, does all the coolant need to be drained to change cambelt and water pump??
I don't think they drained it completely so interested to know if it is completely drained?

The pump is in the bottom of the block, so basically all the coolant come out for it to be replaced. There might be a small amount of old coolant remaining in the header matrix, but that wouldn't be removed with a coolant change anyway. It's not imperative that every drop of old coolant is removed, as long as a majority of it is, as would be the case for a pump replacement.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

AT1963 wrote:

Jules..your right about JLR but i would imagine any dealer may probably take a similar approach.
TBH- oil changes every 2 years is poor. Our FL2 was first serviced by main dealer after 2 years!
Our Audi is serviced yearly but they have a flexible service plan for supposed low mileage / high mileage cars and try to justify with long life (super ) oil!!

Yep, Ive always changed the engine oil at 6K miles or annually.

@AT Its not the dealer that sets the service schedule but the manufacturer.
Other uses of haldex units, mainly VAG and Volvo, stipulate haldex servicing at around 20K miles but JLR chose to ignore that. Jules

Would the Haldex oil be changed when the diff bearing is upgraded? MY 09 GS manual in Lago Grey, Wood Co arm rest and side bumper strips - now sold.

MY 15 SD4 SE Auto Orkney Grey with colour coded Bumper Door Mouldings

The Haldex has to be removed from the diff in order for the input shaft bearings to be replaced. This means the Haldex fluid is lost, unless it's kept and reused.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Thanks Nodge 🙃 MY 09 GS manual in Lago Grey, Wood Co arm rest and side bumper strips - now sold.

MY 15 SD4 SE Auto Orkney Grey with colour coded Bumper Door Mouldings

There's more than the fluid in the Haldex. There's a filter that needs to be replaced, and the pump screen needs cleaning too, both are just as important as the 20k fluid changes. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Since I will again have use of the hydraulic ramp on the farm next door -(its been out of action for a while) I'll be doing my haldex in a weeks time, inc filter and pump screen. Jules

Mine on the agenda for this weekend as well, unfortunately only on drive up ramps. Bit of a faff on the later gen4 haldex, having to remove propshaft and physically remove the haldex, to get the coupling off to get the pump out to clean the pump screen. Sure what else would I be doing? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)