Lookers Park Royal wrote:

BrianAbbott wrote:

but seemed to know his stuff

Except when it came to TR and suspension!

James

So you can confirm, James, that he was talking ?

Certainly the ride did seem marginally better in the snow and ice mode - how would that be then? Brian

MY11 FL2 SD4 GS
Extras to same spec as XS apart from the Satnav, plus Xenons.
Ipenema Sand, Ebony.

Maybe the Freelander 2 come with progressive springs?

ie: The faster you go into a corner the stiffer they become.

In GGS the Haldex is more agressively driven and therefore it can help you to corner much better by generating a slight oversteer.
But in the same time it can wind-up a little the driveline on dry roads with better/good grip. This will slowly lead to an accelerated wear of Haldex's clutches and sometimes unwanted play in driveline's components.
The system software should protect the car's hardware components in such situations, but you know, not always is infallible.
So, in other words, don't use special programs when not necessary... But, as always, it's your car...
Below you'll find some relevant informations:

There is certainly no connection between the TR settings and the suspension on FL2. Although using an incorrect TR setting for the terrain may give the impression that the car has more grip, it will be a combination of the DSC and Haldex coupling as opposed to the suspension.

As mentioned above, this will put additional strain on a number of components (especially brake pads/discs haldex unit etc due to DSC). I wouldn't reccomend doing this personally.

James

Last edited by Lookers Park Royal on 8th Apr 2011 10:34 am. Edited 2 times in total

James confirmed my thoughts, it's a shame that misinformation is given out at these events more so when the instructors are proclaimed 'experts' by LR.
After my visit later this month at least my instructor will go away a better and more knowledgeable person from my visit

alex_pescaru wrote:

In GGS the Haldex is more agressively driven and therefore it can help you to corner much better by generating a slight oversteer.
But in the same time it can wind-up a little the driveline on dry roads with better/good grip. This will slowly lead to an accelerated wear of Haldex's clutches and sometimes unwanted play in driveline's components.
The system software should protect the car's hardware components in such situations, but you know, not always is infallible.
So, in other words, don't use special programs when not necessary... But, as always, it's your car...
Below you'll find some relevant informations:

EYorkshire wrote:

James confirmed my thoughts, it's a shame that misinformation is given out at these events more so when the instructors are proclaimed 'experts' by LR.
After my visit later this month at least my instructor will go away a better and more knowledgeable person from my visit

Don't forget to take some scones  2002 Honda VFR800
2002 Toyota Celica 140 Silver (mid life crisis - again!)
2007 FL2 GS Manual Army Reconnaissance Green + freel2.com sticker
2004 Toyota Celica 140 Black - Gone
2000 Toyota Celica 140 Silver - Gone
1998 Toyota Celica ST Pearl Green - Gone
1996 Nissan Primera 1.6 - Gone
1994 Rover Montego 1.6 Auto - Gone

BrianAbbott wrote:

So, in summary, GGS in the wet = good, GGS in the dry = not recommended ?

Do you think LR might have some interest in us driving our FL2's in such a way that places higher loading on some of the expensive bits.

1) more income from parts
2) trade ups

 2002 Honda VFR800
2002 Toyota Celica 140 Silver (mid life crisis - again!)
2007 FL2 GS Manual Army Reconnaissance Green + freel2.com sticker
2004 Toyota Celica 140 Black - Gone
2000 Toyota Celica 140 Silver - Gone
1998 Toyota Celica ST Pearl Green - Gone
1996 Nissan Primera 1.6 - Gone
1994 Rover Montego 1.6 Auto - Gone

No, I don't think so, the owners manual is 30% taken up with warning you of this and warning you of that. LR have a 'duty of care' to protect the owner and Health and Safety dictates them warning us of every eventuality that may go wrong, it's a sad world we live in.
In the old days the manual stated how to 'jump start' the car down a hill, now it can't be put in a written form in case you got run over by your own car and then sued LR for suggesting it.
Nearly everything has an explanation of the do's and dont's in the owner manual so .............. RTFM.

being in 4x4drive will alter the way the car sit on its springs when cornering due to the backend pushing instead of being dragged, prehaps thats what he mean?
My pickup for example rides high at one side when cornering in 4x4 but its a little different as it has no center diff At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Getting a bit of topic, but I had wandered for a while, yet never researched, how the Freely did 4x4 with the transverse engine. Just had a look on Wikipedia and the Haldex website for information on the Haldex unit and it made some sense of the situation. Is there any other reading material that people recommend for understanding the mechanics of our Freely's drive system? 1st time FL2 owner. 2007 SE i6 in Tambora Flame.

For starters have a look in 'Alex's' profile gallery, he has a mine of information in there.

djwhyte wrote:

Is there any other reading material that people recommend for understanding the mechanics of our Freely's drive system?

Long story short:
After the engine and gearbox, the "drive power" enters the front differential. From there to front wheels.
Also from the input of the front differential, the same drive power is taken and, through the main driveshaft, reaches the rear drive.
There, only when necessary, the drive power reaches the rear differential (and wheels) through the Haldex coupling.
See below picture and also read the followings:
Transfer case
Haldex + Rear Drive

Click image to enlarge

Thanks Alex. That picture alone was exactly what I was after. 1st time FL2 owner. 2007 SE i6 in Tambora Flame.