Hi guys
New to the forum, we are a family of 2 LR's, myself with a 2003 Discovery and my wife has a 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 Auto, black with cream leather.

The Freelander has developed a problem whereby on cold start the car would drive normal, if the drive was swift without getting caught in traffic it would drive normally; If she gets caught in traffic the car would lose power on take off. Foot to the metal and the car would just slowly start to move, it would gain momentum and you could reach decent driving speed but the car would have a power loss throughout the speed ranges. Note, there were no warning lights on the dash. Switching car off and restarting wouldn't fix the problem.

What I've done so far:
Blanked the EGR > No difference, problem persisted.
Removed and cleaned MAP and MAF sensors > Now the car always has a power loss even on cold start, but only up to 2000-2500 revs; Once the car reaches nearly 2500 revs it would drive normally with full power, so now the problem is only at below 2000-2500 revs.

In my head it points to one of the 2 sensors being faulty but wanted to check with some experts before replacing.

If they do need replacing, are there any recommended copy parts or do I need to stick to original?


Apologies for getting straight down to business having just joined but need to fix the wife's car because she isn't happy


Cos

Hi well we can’t have an unhappy wife can we I’m no expert but there are lots on here who will help but I would get the codes read.

copy parts can be a right lottery - but the engine is used on several vehicles such as Peugeot, so as long as you stick to reputable makes e.g. Bosch you should be OK

Trying to fix a car by guessing is a bl**dy expensive way of lining the parts suppliers pockets, and wastes an awful lot of time. You have what was once a VERY expensive car, with in built diagnostics. Go to Gendan website and buy a cheap OBDII diagnostics tool it should give you a much better starting place.

Please don't think that "mechanics" are grease monkeys, vehicle diagnostics is a hard earned craft, yes the more simple faults can be diagnosed by the man on the street with a cheap simple scanner, but some you will have to take to an expert. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

I have the same or very similar symptoms in my vehicle at the moment - but the fault codes detected indicate it's a transmission problem, not an ECU problem.
I will be changing the trans fluid shortly, but I have heard it is probably linked to transmission valve problems.

I believe blanking the EGR is a no-no in an SD4.

I agree with Andy. Have the fault codes detected and analysed before throwing any more money at it.

My 2p. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

As said above have you checked for any engine codes with an OBD2 code reader? Is so what are they?

When was the fuel filter last changed and was a genuine LR one used, non genuine ones have been known to cause issues similar to those you are experiencing. When you change the fuel filter on a Freelander 2 it needs priming as the system does not self prime, personally when I changed mine I bleed the system of air with a vacuum pump connected to the return outlet of the fuel filter the one to the tank (looking at the filter from the top it is the rear on the left) this extracts all the air in the system, from the filter, fuel pump and injector lines. Once the system is purged of air the vehicle should start without any problem.

A number of members have reported issues with air entering the fuel pipes at the fuel filter and this can also lead to loss of power.

I have a 2013 doing exactly the same as this.

Did you get it sorted & if so, what was it in the end?!