I replaced my rear Diff and Haldex with one that Austen had refurbished / upgraded and now my Freelander 2 seems to be in FWD mode.

It was installed by an independent Land Rover mechanic and I assume all the oil were put in correctly.

I am trying to work out why it’s not working. There are no error codes and I am using the old differential control module.

So given there is no error code, I can only think of a few things that may not be right:
1) propshaft not spinning / Front transfer unit not working
2) some issue with electricity getting to the pump
3) pump not working - but Austen would have checked this
4) not enough oil in the Haldex / leak

I assume wiring issues to the differential control module or a damaged electronic control module would give an error code.
Does anyone have any other ideas and anything else I can test?

I have emailed Austen to ask for some advice.

First thing to check would be the fuse in the boot fuse box, although that should flag up a message on the dash. There is no diif module, just the Haldex one. You haven't swapped from a gen 3 to a gen 4 Haldex have you? They use different modules as far as I am aware.

Nick (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Thanks Nick,

I have not checked the fuse as that should put an error message on.

And I have a swapped a Gen 4 for a Gen 4.

That fact that you have no error codes or dash warnings suggests to me that the electrical side of things is all good but I would still want to check it out 'just in case'!
How does the system act when you select one of the all terrain options? If it displays whatever option is selected but still is only fwd, then that could point to the PTU splines being worn, which is a known issue.
What were the reasons for fitting an o/h Haldex in the first place & was the all terrain system working correctly before it was changed?
Clearly, if the system was fully functional before swapping out the diff/haldex, then you'd have to be very suspicious of the work that has been carried out & I'd be asking your mechanic to sort it out!

Nick (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Thanks Nick,

The differential was on its way out so I got it fixed, but the differentials guys didn’t clean the Haldex and didn’t put enough oil in it and damaged it. The new differential started wearing too. So I got a low mileage Haldex and differential from an Evoque (Gen 4 Haldex not Gen 5) and got Austen to service it and modify it before shipping it here.

Prior to replacement all the terrain modes worked albeit noisily etc. Now it still displays the selected terrain mode say they but I don’t think they do work. If it’s a PTU problem would the propshaft rotate?

Thanks!

So what makes you think the Haldex isn't working?

Does a rapid getaway make the front wheels spin easily (especially if wet)? (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Badger51 - that only tells you that you've got no drive to the rear wheels - that could be due to a failed PTU instead of a failed Haldex.

The car needs to be up in the air to see what is actually going on. Jules

Jules, agreed & that is exactly what we are trying to establish, read the whole thread please!  (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

What, the whole thread ?  Jules

Hi all,
Hope you don't mind me joining in but this is the most recent thread on this issue and earlier this week during a very wet morning, from standing start & turning sharpish left across several lanes of the road with foot down a little, the front wheels span like I've never experienced before. Otherwise car is driving fine for a 2006 model @232k KM's.

So I've been doing research on Freel forum, Web, in manuals and of course at Bell Engineering.

See below in Copied from Bell Facebook page:

"
Bell Engineering Tom Simpson
2 tests you can do,
1. Jack up 1 front wheel and carefully try to drive off the jack, if it doesn't move look to see if propshaft is going round when wheel is spinning, if it's stationery the spline has gone.

2nd way is with the car in gear (or park on an auto), back wheels of floor, try rotate the propshaft by hand, if it spins freely, splines have gone. 2nd test can be slightly missleading as depending how the spline has stripped it can still be very tight (friction) so can't be turned by hand, but as soon as you drive it it slips
"


So this morning I had time and weather OK, got LHS up onto axle stand but with rears firmly on ground in 1st gear and sure enough the drive shaft turns quite easily with 1 hand. From research this would seem to indicate that is the Power Transfer Unit and I'll be contacting Bell on Monday just to make sure this what it probably is and decide if:

A) Buy a Bell recon PTU & fit it myself
B) Drive back at Xmas and get booked in with Bell for them to replace PTU - also check other drive chain components & maybe get Haldex serviced (we've had it for last 137k KM and its not had any attention)

or

C) Let the car go and look for something newer, maybe even a 2014 MY Freelander 2

To help with this decision, can anyone share experience of PTU replacement? Level of difficulty/Special tools/hints or tips please?

All help and good advice gratefully received.

Cheers,
Mick

Great info there mdpsim  (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

mdpslm wrote:

So this morning I had time and weather OK, got LHS up onto axle stand but with rears firmly on ground in 1st gear and sure enough the drive shaft turns quite easily with 1 hand. From research this would seem to indicate that is the Power Transfer Unit and I'll be contacting Bell on Monday just to make sure this what it probably is and decide if:

,
Mick

Hey Jules,
I did both, same result when LHS tyre both on & off the ground.


So to my earlier request to all please:

Can anyone share experience of PTU replacement? Level of difficulty/Special tools/hints or tips please?
All help and good advice gratefully received.

Cheers,
Mick

Not done it myself but from looking at the JLR and Haynes manuals its a straight forward job requiring no special tools but quite a few bits need to be moved before you get to the transfer case.

You need to remove :
Prop shaft
RH drive shaft (half shaft)
Catatalytic convertor
Engine stabiliser bar
a few pipes, vent tube and some air ducting.

I imagine the transfer case is pretty heavy. I wouldnt want to do it without a pit or lift. I removed a gearbox (which is heavier I know) once whilst lying under a car and the full weight of the gearbox fell onto my chest - it hurt ! Jules

I just replaced my PTU on Saturday on my drive. You need to get the front of the car quite high to give yourself room but the PTU is nowhere near as heavy as a gearbox so you should be fine.
Jules is pretty much spot in with his assessment and the only things to make sure you have are a decent ball joint splitter and the correct torx socket for the prop shaft bolts. A 5 foot steel pry bar and an assistant was useful too for getting the bottom ball joint back together. You will need to remove the steel turbo pipe from the intercooler to give yourself access.
I replaced the gearbox oil at the same time (manual) as it was due and I would have lost some when the drive shaft and PTU were removed anyway.
Austen at Bell Engineering also mentioned that the splined coupling can sometimes be difficult to remove from the gearbox but I was lucky and mine came out without a fight.
If you decide to do it yourself take your time and be careful.