Hi, I am new to this forum and wondered if i might get some advice. I have a 2011MY SD4 Auto HSE. For a few weeks I had a reduced engine performance message come up on the display and the car would not rev very high, under normal driving. Interestingly if you floored it it would go quite normally, now the yellow EML light has come on. I have just read the codes and it has two, P244A & P2456. Google searches have lead me to to look at the two hoses by the exhaust to see if they are perished, they are both fine. There appear top be quite few DPF pressure sensors for sale on eBay and i wondered if anybody knew if this was a recurrent problem on these cars and should i change that. Any ideas would be gratefully received.

Last edited by defendersv on 19th May 2019 10:50 am. Edited 1 time in total

'Reduced Engine Performance' or 'Engine System Fault' message displayed. Torque derate, regeneration locked out (DTC P244A16 also logged)
Particulate filter differential pressure below limit
Clear DTC, cycle ignition status from ON to OFF (power down) a minimum of six times, set ignition status to ON, if DTC remains install a new differential pressure sensor

'Reduced Engine Performance' or 'Engine System Fault' message displayed. Regeneration locked out (DTC P244A00 also logged)
Signal not plausible. Differential pressure sensor hose line defective
Check for correct installation and integrity of differential pressure sensor hoses, rectify as required

'Reduced Engine Performance' or 'Engine System Fault' message displayed. Regeneration locked out (DTC P244A00
Signal not plausible. Differential pressure sensor hose line defective
Check for correct installation and integrity of differential pressure sensor hoses, rectify as required

'DPF Full Visit Dealer' message displayed. Torque derate, regeneration locked out (DTC P244A97 also logged)
Particulate filter differential pressure sensor blocked
Check for blocked/restricted Differential Pressure sensor and hoses FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

'Reduced Engine Performance' or 'Engine System Fault' message displayed. Torque derate, regeneration locked out (DTC P245600 also logged)
Leaking or blocked differential pressure sensor hoses Differential pressure sensor circuit short, open circuit Sensor failure
Check for split/degraded, blocked differential pressure sensor hoses, refer to electrical circuit diagrams and check differential pressure sensor circuits for short, open circuit. Install a new sensor as required FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Hi, thank you very much for your reply. I have done what you said this morning. I saved the codes again and then erased them. Although i wasn't sure about the powering the ignition on and off six times. Does the ignition power up and down when you "dock the key " or do you have to start the engine ? In the end i went for starting the engine. The EML light is still off and i have one code showing P2456 Diesel particulate filter differential pressure sensor - circuit intermittent / erratic. Reduced engine performance is still displayed on the cars dashboard. I don't know if this makes a difference but the car has about 90 000miles on it. Does this mean i ought to change the pressure sensor? From the looking at the Haynes manual it appears to be easy to get to.
Once again many thanks.

Hi again. I have now received the pressure sensor from Rimmers. What i thought would be any easy swap appears to be a bit tougher than i realised. Has anyone who has done this themselves before could give me a heads up. It looks as if i have to remove the intercooler pipe that travels across the bottom of the engine to gain access but i'm not sure if this will allow me enough room. I have had a look at going in from the top but the gap between engine and bulk head is tight and even more so i f you have larger than average hands! Any ideas or tips greatly received.

Some info here might help

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic25109.html? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Hi, thanks for your reply. I had read this post. It was what convinced me to change the sensor. It's really awkward to get my hand up into the space between the rear of the engine and the bulkhead. I was hoping to find someone who had changed it before. I will try and do it next weekend. I might even have a go at taking some pictures and sticking them on here although that might be a step too far for my I.T. skills. Cheers John

You might be better off asking your local garage to do the job.

I fitted my new pressure sensor yesterday, so I thought I would have a go at posting a quick tutorial of how I did it. It wasn’t hard to do just a bit fiddly if you have large hands.





First I undid the 6 x 13mm bolts for the engine under shield and removed this. Then working on the large silver pipe that goes across the bottom of the engine.








I removed the jubilee clips at the bottom of the flexible pipe at the front and the upper one at the back. The rear one can be a bit difficult to get to from underneath. I found it easier to come in from the side by the lower wish bone .







I then undid the nut and bolts pictured here, and pulled the pipe off. I stood this end up on a rag whist I completed the rest so as to let the residual oil drain out.








I marked one pipe with some white tape so as to avoid any confusion refitting. I then undid the small nut holding the sensor in place pulling it off the stud, I unclipped and detached the hoses at the pipes, finally removing the electrical connection. Excuse the flowery tin, here is the old and new side by side apparently this part no. has superseded the old part.







I removed sensor from the plastic bracket and refitted in a complete reversal of the above although I found it easier to start the hoses on the intercooler pipe before bolting back. I then reset the faults using the icarsoft.

In all the whole situation cost a little under £350. I purchased an icarsoft pro scanner from Diagnostic World and a new sensor from Rimmers. I could have got a cheaper scanner but this hopefully will allow me to look at other the cars in the family.

Excellent write up.

Last edited by Jack frost on 19th May 2019 7:00 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Good work! My DPF sensor (also MY11 SD4 HSE Auto) was replaced under warranty fortunately. The specialists that did the job mentioned something about having to use SDD to calibrate the new sensor. I never worked out if this was BS or if it is something you need to do?

Thanks. I haven't calibrated it, I just swapped it over and it seems fine now. To be honest I don't even know what SDD is. I have done most of my work on older car cars hence all the questions at the start of the post.

SDD = Symtom Driven Diagnostics.

I don't beleive that it does actually need calibrating and should be plug and play. More BS that is totally unnecessary.

Good write up and pictures, many thanks for sharing  MY13 HSE Lux.......faultless since new.

Thanks for the info. I have just Googled SDD. Am I missing something or is it very similar to the icarsoft reader I have just purchased. I have also tried to have a look at Topix. Do you have to pay for this, is it a monthly subscription? I couldn't get it to work.

Not quite.

Depends largely upon which version that you buy. There are plenty of cracked copies on evil bay although my suggestion would be that 134.5 is the best for this particular vehicle (L359)....it got very complicated after that and didn't allow you to do a lot of things that earlier versions could allow. You will also need to acquire a VCI/Mongoose cable for it to work properly.

topIx on the other hand, is best paid for as and when you really really need it.....it can get very costly, depending on what you are trying to achieve. To date, I don't know of anyone that has managed to crack this, either on or off-line. MY13 HSE Lux.......faultless since new.