Hi All,

I am looking for some advice - my car has started behaving like a learner driver.

When the car is warm and I come to a stop in traffic and start to pull away, it is like the car slams the gear in place and throws the clutch up too quickly giving quite a jolt before pulling off ( enough to look like the car has stalled ).

I have had the car for 2 years now and it hasnt done it before but is now quite frequent.

Its a 13 plate XS Automatic, so any advice would be appreciated. I have an extended warranty so will return if I need to but my guesses so far are either

a) Low battery ( I often get the warning about the system shutting down since I have a blackvue cam )
b) Gear box oil needs changing.

Any thoughts?

Phil

Sorry, can't help with the gearbox problem, but I have a blackvue cam (front and rear) and it can be set to be active for various lengths of time after switching off the ignition. Also, I have a "Power Magic" device that will switch off the cam when the battery falls to a certain level. Hope this helps with the low battery problem.

J

There has been a software update made available to deal with a similar (or identical problem), have you had it into a LR dealership to see if the update has been installed? I had a similar problem that was corrected with the updated software.

I'm sure a far more learned forum member will be along shortly to give the full details. Updated- Waiting for a Scotland v England 6 Nations home win. 24th Feb 2018
Gone-1972 88 SWB Soft top
Gone-1981 24v FFR Lightweight
Gone-2009 Freelander 2 TD4 GS manual
Gone before it bankrupted me- 2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto
2013 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto

I also had it put right by a software update, at times it was like I had been rear ended when pulling away.

i think Taz had a similar issue and there had been something like 3 gearbox updates since his

regards the low battery, mine does this all the time also, i charge with the CTeK and its back showing low messages less than a week later, i have my headrests set to turn off straight away and my cameras shut down also after x time

personally i think the cars draw too much upon start up and the battery is not a sufficient size Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Yes, get the software updates applied, I had those symptoms

Thanks chaps. Looks like a trip to the dealer is needed.

The patch that I had was to resolve a problem with the EGR 'fluttering' causing a hesitation and sudden surge of power. Updated- Waiting for a Scotland v England 6 Nations home win. 24th Feb 2018
Gone-1972 88 SWB Soft top
Gone-1981 24v FFR Lightweight
Gone-2009 Freelander 2 TD4 GS manual
Gone before it bankrupted me- 2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto
2013 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto

With regards to battery charging ( and me being a bit of a numpty on such details ), do you disconnect the battery or leave it connected whilst charging?

Also some cars you leave connected but put the positive end of the charger on the positive of the battery but the negative gets connected to the car rather than the battery.

How do you guys do it?

This is only for 'tuggers' with a 13 pin socket, I have a CTEK 10 amp with a 13 pin plug on the end and charge the cars battery through that (pin 9 and 13). Whichever way you do it, if you are using a 'Smart' charger like a CTEK then just clamp on the battery terminals and remove when finished, no risk of sparking or surge.

pjbnet wrote:

With regards to battery charging ( and me being a bit of a numpty on such details ), do you disconnect the battery or leave it connected whilst charging?

Also some cars you leave connected but put the positive end of the charger on the positive of the battery but the negative gets connected to the car rather than the battery.

How do you guys do it?

I have exactly the same problem, however as I rarely do stop start driving I've only noticed it three or four times. I asked Guy Salmon when I had mine serviced a coupe of weeks ago and they told me that mine wasn't one of the affected models? I wondered if it was Haldex related and so was planning on getting that serviced. I'll keep an eye on this thread with interest.

Thanks for the advice on battery charging - I have a black and decker ( supposed to be intelligent ) so will try it by just attaching to the terminals without disconnecting them from the car.

I will speak to the dealer and let you know about the jerky problem

You did mention oil change.
Remember LR say the oil is fitted for life.

Mine had done 150k on the original gearbox oil, and had started to play silly bu**ers, it would change from 5th to 4th, but would wait until the revs had climbed before engaging 4th, so it would engage very violently, sometimes it would do the same from 4th to 3rd. The jerk and noise was loud enough to wake sleeping passengers.

I changed just over 3 litres of gearbox oil, but this made no difference - 3.2 litres is how much oil comes out when you remove the drain plug.
A few weeks ago I made a serious effort to change the oil, so dropped the 3 litres, and refilled, warmed up the gearbox and repeat. It took 18 litres before the oil was the same colour coming out as going in - this is on a gearbox with 7-8 litre capacity.
Anyway a couple of days later the gearbox is changing as good as new.
so 150k is far too late, 75k might be a better interval, or as some have suggested, just change 3 litres every time you service the car Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
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Here's a thread about the gear box jolt,

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic24563.htm...ex+gearbox

Interesting as my car did it the other day but hasn't done it since. Further reading suggests it happens when the handbrake has been applied or gear box put in neutral. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.