I am slowly sorting out the Freelander to get it in a state where I know what is what. Just had a new inlet manifold fitted as a precautionary measure so the next job is renewing front and rear discs, pads, shoes and anything else I find. Quick question regarding stripping down and fitting new rear brake shoes. My drive unfortunately is fairly steep apart from a bit at the bottom where I could park it 90 degrees to the drive so the question is whether it is possible to do the rear brake shoes by jacking one side at a time or whether the whole rear end needs to be lifted to enable easy access to the brake shoe adjusters. With the Subaru it is not as much of a problem problem but with close on 2 ton it could be.
Just as an added comment and after reading the thread on the addition of 2 stroke oil to diesel, I have done it for the last couple of fill ups and it has certainly started to make a difference in smoothness and less noise and allthough it is costing me a fair bit at the momemt sorting it out, I really do like the car.

I have just done my handbrakes with one corner at a time jacked up and supported, and access wasn't a problem.

Just make sure it's on level ground though!

Good luck!


Pete 2007 TD4 HSE Auto

Thanks for the response. If I can do one wheel at a time then there will not be a problem as I have a good trolley jack and axle stands coupled with decent wheel chocks. The only concern that I had was whether I could rotate one wheel easily to line up the shoe adjuster wheel with the other side firmly on the ground. I have just bought a additional set of virtually unused sparkle silver 18" HSE wheels and tyres with part of the deal was a complete set of unused genuine LR front and rear brake components. A bit of a bargain at a price which was less than the cost of a set of 19" Contis but I have to admit that I that I like the shadow chromes better which will now be for summer only use.

May I kindly recommend that you do your homework first on that trolley jack and axle stands. The FL is so high up and has long suspension travel that a standard car trolley jack doesn't lift high enough and equally car axle stands are overall to small and don't lift enough.
You may need to buy bigger items for the freelie.
You also need to look and think where to lift and where to support at the rear as there's lots of fresh airspace and not much chassis.
If you do the checks and planning in an evening you should be ready for the full day on brake repairs.
.
Kind regards from Fred. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

It might be worth inspecting your hand brake shoes first to see if they actually need changing. They have a very slow wear rate.

I was going to change mine when I did my discs and pads, but upon inspection there was hardly any wear on the,. So I just cleaned up the edges and left them.

Replacing the discs and pads is easy enough.

Before you do it, run the car at about 5mph and run with the hand brake on just a little bit. This will clean off any rust or crap that may have built up inside the hub and prevent the disc coming off. I do mean just a little bit, don't put it on full and drive off.

On the rear, once the wheel is off, removed the caliper and the little black plastic plug on the dis face, them rotate this little hole so it is at the back of the car if you know what I mean.

Using a torch, you will see a small adjuster with teeth on it. Rotate this which will loosen off the hand brakes hoes. You can then remove the disc.

Once off you will see the adjuster in more detail.

Once the disc is off, give the hub area a good blow out to remove any dusts etc and inspect the hand brake shoes. Only replace if you need to.

Once the new disc is in place, rotate the adjuster until it is locked on the disc and you can't rotate the disc, then rotate the opposite way by 8 clicks. This will back the shoes off for every day driving but have a perfect hand brake.

Have a look at my link below as I did this just a few weeks ago.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic16961.html

I also just a standard 2 tonne trolly jack and axle stands. No problems encountered, Freelander 2 HSE Lux 2013MY - Barolo Black with Ivory Leather. Alpine DVD - Privacy -Evoque 20" Dynamic Wheels and more to come.........

Thanks to all who have responded, it is appreciated. I do not have any problems with the mechanics involved in doing the brakes as I have done similar to numerous types vehicles over the last 50 plus years. What I have not worked on before is a Land Rover and with the Freelander being quite quite complex and also weighty my main concern was whether or not I could rotate a rear wheel without them both being of the ground. At the top of my drive there is a small flat area which I utilised to jack up the front end when I flushed the power steering system and changed the power steering reservoir.This area worked fine for the front as the hand brake could be fully applied along with substantial wheel chocks. Unfortunately the same cannot be done for the back in the same area therefore I have to locate the car close to the house and at right angles to the drive. This gives me an area which is reasonably level from front to rear but with an incline side to side. If as it appears that I am able to lift and work on one corner at a time then there is no problem. It is only if I needed to lift both rear wheels together that there was a potential issue. As far as kit to do the job is concerned, I am well equipped with a 3 ton high lift trolley jack, suitable axle stands and wheel chocks. Whilst I fully appreciate that wear on the drum shoes could be minimal, I feel that as I am putting new discs on then whilst it is stripped down I might as well put new shoe assemblies on. The tyres that are on at the moment which are a mixture of 2 Continental cross contacts and 2 Continental contacts have varying degrees of wear from 5.5mm to 8 mm of tread depth. I am not too keen on this which is why I will be putting wheels with full tread tyres on all round so at least the rolling radius should be the same. I do like the car but I think that there will be a few more issues to sort out before too long. One further question, I only click on submit once but get a double post. Can anyone tell me why.

It happens sometimes, deleted the double post

If your posting on a tablet and click back once you've clicked submit it will leave a double post, don't know why it does it but it does  BETTER looking half of the famous Twinlanders
The wanna be other half - http://www.freel2.com/forum/member-carriec.html

As a matter of interest, I am posting from my desktop PC and do not have a clue why it double posts. Great site by the way with loads of information available when you search for it. Learned a lot already but the downside is you can begin to look for problems which may not be there.

I replaced mine recently one corner up at a time without any problem. As the shoes are only used for holding the car when parked they should never wear, down side of that is that they never get hot to dry out and therefore are prone to the friction lining rotting and breaking up. Replaced mine with Mintex, vast improvement.

An even bigger problem with the Handbrake is the pivot pont on the shoes seizing, it needs cleaning and lubricating whilst the rear discs are off. p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

Yes, the expander links on the rear shoes are a critical part of the assembly so they will be replaced and lubricated. For anyone's interest I have found that the the owner of the site that supplies the parts below is very good and has all sorts of treasures that do not go on e-bay. I took a trip over to pick up some items and was very impressed as everything I got was genuine LR


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221278997607?ssP...1438.l2649

excellent price there  At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

I thought that these were good as well and even better with the total package price I got for the complete brake set collected

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221278972155?ssP...1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380712448767?ssP...1438.l2649