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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Sidesteps re-rivetting; How do you remove the plastic mats?
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fredastaire



Member Since: 03 Dec 2012
Location: Holbrook
Posts: 721

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Santorini Black
Sidesteps re-rivetting; How do you remove the plastic mats?

My genuine LR sidestep top flat extruded aluminium section has come detached from one of the box section steel mounting tubes.
There are pop rivets through the bottom of the aluminium section and into the steel tube.
The plastic twin mats are clipped to the extrusion and must be detached to reach the pop rivets to drill out and replace.
.
There must be an easy way to remove the mat from the extrusion, does anybody know how is best?
.
Kind regards from Fred
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Post #197635 3rd Sep 2013 7:19 am
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Badger1970



Member Since: 21 Sep 2012
Location: Southam, Warwickshire
Posts: 1372

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Baltic Blue

Have a look here:

&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D3mbK8LiGjT4

It's a good guide, but not sure it will cover exactly what you are trying to do....do they not just prise off? Foraging near Gaydon....
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MY13 HSE Lux SD4, Baltic Blue - current, 30,000> miles without fault
MY12 HSE 2.2 SD4, Sumatra Black - gone after 10 months/43,000 fault-free miles

Post #197637 3rd Sep 2013 7:58 am
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camper2



Member Since: 28 Nov 2012
Location: Isle of Man
Posts: 41

Isle Of Man 2012 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Santorini Black

Hi Fred. I wiped my passenger step off on a stone wall. All the rivets sheared but the mountings survived apart from a slight bend in the front one. Tried to get the rubber off to repair and re-install the same as you are attempting. Failed.

Gave up in the end and botched it - drilled right through the rubber / step / support arm - and fitted three through bolts with nuts. Filled in the rubber penetration holes with black mastic. Feels just as sturdy as the original and who is to know. Apart from you of course! Now - Black 2012 FR2 SD4 XS really miss the RRS
Gone - Black 2008 3.6 TDV8 RRS orgasmic
Gone - Black 2006 2.7 HSE RRS problems
Gone - Green 2008 SWB Defender fully loaded; brill
Gone - Green 2005 Disco diesel; brill
Gone - Black 2003 Disco diesel; brill

Post #197641 3rd Sep 2013 8:54 am
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Whahoo



Member Since: 01 Nov 2011
Location: Kent
Posts: 123

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Swmbo managed to knock off my n/s step on a high curb. It sheared the actual step off the three metal prongs that go under the car.
It was fairly straight forward to fix.
You'll need some tigerseal and some 2" (ish) bolts that can self tap through the hole left where the rivets went into the step (the step is aluminium).
Take the prongs off the car and drill all the way through where the rivet used to be so now the prongs should be able to allow your bolt to pass through. Clean up on the underside of the step and apply the tigerseal. Then place the prong back where it used to be before it got knocked off and do the bolt up. This should hold it all nice and tight.
Do all three prongs this way and slide the step back on to the car 'adjusting' the prongs with small hammer until it all slides in nicely. Nip up the bolts and hey presto. All fixed.

You can't re rivet it as you cannot get into the inside of the step to do it

Post #197691 3rd Sep 2013 3:26 pm
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camper2



Member Since: 28 Nov 2012
Location: Isle of Man
Posts: 41

Isle Of Man 2012 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Santorini Black

I thought about doing that but as I am 15 stone, sometimes 'take a drink', and then use the step as a passenger.
There is very little meat on the snot aluminium steps and I doubt if self tappers and glue would take my tottering weight. That is why I went the other way and put a through bolt via the 'prongs' as you call them.
Did anyone notice how I said the problem would be my weight on the bodjed passenger step and never mentioned my better half Smile Now - Black 2012 FR2 SD4 XS really miss the RRS
Gone - Black 2008 3.6 TDV8 RRS orgasmic
Gone - Black 2006 2.7 HSE RRS problems
Gone - Green 2008 SWB Defender fully loaded; brill
Gone - Green 2005 Disco diesel; brill
Gone - Black 2003 Disco diesel; brill

Post #197721 3rd Sep 2013 6:47 pm
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Badger1970



Member Since: 21 Sep 2012
Location: Southam, Warwickshire
Posts: 1372

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Baltic Blue

Rolling with laughter I can assure you that the original Steps can easily take nearly 18 stone of weight without an issue. Aftermarket ones may be as much use as a chocolate teapot, but mine are solid as a rock!! Foraging near Gaydon....
覧覧覧覧覧覧覧
MY13 HSE Lux SD4, Baltic Blue - current, 30,000> miles without fault
MY12 HSE 2.2 SD4, Sumatra Black - gone after 10 months/43,000 fault-free miles

Post #197722 3rd Sep 2013 6:49 pm
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Whahoo



Member Since: 01 Nov 2011
Location: Kent
Posts: 123

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

You'll trust six little rivets but nut chunky bolts and tiger seal (that literallyanything to anything forever... ) Smile
The forces on the step are all applied downwards on to the prongs. If they were going to encounter greater lateral forces etc then maybe I'd consider different options.
It's been months since the fix and had no issues with them being used by people heavier then 15 stone Smile

Post #197763 3rd Sep 2013 10:08 pm
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