Hi!

Does anybody have a guide for changing the diesel filter?
This should be done every year right?
I have done it on my previous cars, but they have all been VAG cars.


Regards
Eirik FL2, TD4 HSE
The flaming Orange!

you need a suction tool. A hose with a rubber ball pump in it At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

copied from another thread...not mine

Here's the advice which worked - hopefully will help others:
- the system is self priming with the electric pump under rear seat driver side
- you need to turn the ignition on without starting engine listen to how long pump whirs for, you need to have had the pump active for about 50 seconds to fully prime if empty fuel filter. This can mean a hell of a lot of switching ignition on and off
- there may be a special priming mode like on the new Discovery but could not find this out
- have the inlet pipe on high pressure side off and with a temporary hose from the filter into a cup follow the procedure until fuel comes out and filter is absolutely full
NB: This is what son was doing but got worried after half an hour of no fuel coming out the filter

Alternative which we did yesterday evening:
- take the inlet pipe on the high pressure pump side off (nearest to front of car on right hand side of filter)
- take the return tank side off the filter to allow the air to bleed and see when filter is full (furthest away from front of car on left hand side of filter)
- insert a flexible pipe (one from brake bleed kit worked a treat) into the filter inlet high pressure side
- decant diesel into a mug and use a syringe to squeeze diesel into the fuel filter through your flexible pipe from above
- repeat until absolutely full and a trickle off diesel comes out of the return feed you took off
- this took about 1 3/4 mug fulls off diesel to fill the filter
- put the return hose back on
- use the flexible pipe and syringe to squeeze some diesel into the hose which feeds the high pressure pump if this hose is empty of fuel (ours was not empty)
- apparently you will not be able to fill this hose because it loops up to the high pressure pump but make sure that you have some fuel in here
- connect up the inlet hose feeding the high pressure pump so now all hoses are clicked securely on the fuel filter
- NOW do the usual fuel pump priming by turning ignition on and off a few times
- depress accelerator fully with engine off, crank engine and expect it to turn over longer than normal before firing
- if does not start then do the ignition on, off priming again and then crank the engine

ALL Done

Some Observations:
- my petrol pump only whirrs for about a second when turning ignition on, would have worked priming the system in this way but so little fuel is pumped doing this that it would have taken about an hour of ignition on, ignition off
- hardly any fuel comes out of the hoses when disconnecting so if you fill the new fuel filter with diesel and then reconnect the hoses the ignition priming will work with just a few minute on, off activity
- obviously do not crank engine if significant air in the system just in case the high pressure pump comes into life and runs dry, this would run without diesel in the pump so no lubricantion and therefore damage
- make sure son checks with land rover technicians for any tips before starting any work. To be fair he is a master tech but works on high performance cars and not landies, he was doing the right things but did not allow for the amount of fuel in the filter and the small amount of fuel delivered by pump when turning on ignition. At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Thanks Mr.......
Might just leave it for the garage.  FL2, TD4 HSE
The flaming Orange!

On top of the fuel filter at the right hand side front (as you are standing with bonnet up) is a hexagon hole for an allen key; this is the fuel drain to let water out.
Look at the new filter underneath and you will see an outlet pipe spigot connection with a larger diameter shield collar.
Go to Wilkinsons hardware (or similar) buy a set of funnels for about �0.60 and a new litre kitchen jug �0.90 Go to a car spares shop and buy clear washer jet pipe that is a tight fit on the diesel filter drain spigot (about 600mm long).
Choose a smallish funnel and pass the clear pipe thro the centre (I had to trim the spout a little), pass it all the way thro as a tight fit till its at the botom of the cone. (it must be interference fit).
push the free end of the pipe on to the fuel drain spigot and re-install the new filter body connecting only the pipes to the HP fuel pump.
Support the funnel up at height well above the filter, (say 200mm), open the fuel drain about 8 turns then pour in neat clean diesel into the funnel so it fills the filter up from the bottom. When fuel spills out of the left conectors, fit one first and then after a moment fit the other so youve got all the air out.
My fuel pipe to the HP pump was empty after changing the engine so then I detached the quick clip connector at the HP pump inlet until Diesel was flowing here before making the final connection and re-tightening the fuel drain screw.
Take off the pipe and funnel and store in a clean screw top jam jar for next time 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic9310.html

I may be looking at this in simplistic terms, but I changed my fuel filter last weekend. Old filter out new one in, left off the inlet pipe from the tank, used small tube and funnel to fill the filter unit from the inlet connection until diesel trickled out. Connected pipe from tank to filter, started car, let it idel for a minute or two. Job done. :
Don't now why but photos are uploaded upside down, sorry.

hi all
I followed fredastire post today no problems at all, ive just acquired 09 commercial working my way through serviceing

Hi! Admittedly I was in a rush to get the car ready for it's MOT and didn't have time to change the fuel filter but does anyone know how to remove the metal bracket in front of the fuel filter. Is it just the four bolts?

Excuse the upside own image.

Click image to enlarge

Yes, only those 4 bolts.
You won't be able to take it entirely out, because on the lower part it holds together with a strap some electrical wires.
But it won't be necessary. You just need to tilt it towards the front of the car, to make room to take out the filter.

Hi Alex. Thanks for the info RE the bolts. On the bottom of the filter there is what looks to be a threaded hose connection - what is this for and how easy is it to unthread?

Aiming on changing it in the next couple of weeks.



A 2007 LR Freelander 2 GS - factory tints, LR mud flaps, 2013 facelift)
Problems/solutions include: rear diff pinion replaced, stearing rack and pump replaced, alternator earth cable replaced (plus new alternator as misdiagnosed), throttle body replaced, MAP sensor replaced, secondary earth cable...
2002 MG TF 160 1.8i VVC - Gone
1998 MGF 1.8i VVC - Gone

The filter's design is shared between various manufacturers.
In the case of FL2 nothing goes in the threaded connection.
In the case of other manufacturers, there goes the sensor for water in fuel.
It's a straight forward job, don't worry.

That's a great help - thank you! 2007 LR Freelander 2 GS - factory tints, LR mud flaps, 2013 facelift)
Problems/solutions include: rear diff pinion replaced, stearing rack and pump replaced, alternator earth cable replaced (plus new alternator as misdiagnosed), throttle body replaced, MAP sensor replaced, secondary earth cable...
2002 MG TF 160 1.8i VVC - Gone
1998 MGF 1.8i VVC - Gone